Availability
Loading...
Summary
Describes the author's experiences as a lifelong surfer, from his early years in Honolulu through his culturally sophisticated pursuits of perfect waves in some of the world's most exotic locales. Full description
Table of Contents:
- Off Diamond Head (Honolulu, 1966-67)
- Smell the ocean (California, ca. 1956-65)
- The shock of the new (California, 1968)
- 'Scuse me while I kiss the sky (Maui, 1971)
- The search (The South Pacific, 1978)
- The lucky country (Australia, 1978-79)
- Choosing Ethiopia (Asia, Africa, 1979-81)
- Against dereliction (San Francisco, 1983-86)
- Basso profundo (Madeira, 1994-2003)
- The mountains fall into the heart of the sea (New York City, 2002-15).